1. Using a #80 bit, drill out all holes for the grab irons. Using .010" wire, bend the large end grab irons and the roof grab irons. Jigs are supplied to help you bend these (see figs. 1 and 2). The ends also receive 22" straight grab irons. Also install the curved grab irons on the sides - you'll have to bend one end (refer to prototype).

2. Assemble the cupola (fig 3). I recommend tacking the assembly together, so if it's not square, you can pop it apart & try again. To tack the parts together, chuck a straight pin in a pin vise and use the point to apply a small drop of thick CA. When you're satisfied it is square, run a bead of thick CA around the inside edges for strength.

3. Tack the cupola to one side of the car (fig 4). Note that it will line up with the side's rivet lines. The cupola will not extend all the way to the bottom of the side, take care to align the tops.

Tack the ends to the other side (also fig 4). The bottoms should be flush here.

Now tack the side assemblies together, one end at a time. Square the body, then tack the cupola's free side.

4. Glue the top side sill to the body (fig 5). Take care to keep the overhangs even.

5. Mark the position of the inner wall on the long roof (fig 6) and glue one side of the reinforcing castings to it. It helps to mark the center of this casting to align it on the roof. Now bend the roof & glue the other side down.

6. Tack the roof to the body (fig 7). Compare the roof length to the length of the underframe, try to keep both the about same length so the end railings stand plumb. When you're satisfied the whole assembly is square, run a bead of thick CA along the inside seams. Apply the roofwalks now. Note that the end walks sit on risers & have an 18" straight grab iron.

7. Glue the drip cap (fig 8) to the cupola, right over the top side sill.

8. Glue the eaves (fig 10) to the bottom of the roof. Note that the NBW castings go in the corners. Trim the top side sill if necessary.

9. Each end step is 2 castings. The steps have to be trimmed to width. Dry fit the body to the underframe to determine how much (allow a hair’s width for paint). After the step assemblies are glued together, trim the inside (under the middle step) to allow for truck clearance (fig 9). You will also have to grind off part of the trucks' journal box. Tack them in place & once you are satisfied with their alignment & truck clearance, reinforce the joint with a glob of CA on the underside.

10. Now you can finish assembly of the underframe (fig 9). I recommend gluing the trussrods in last. I used wire, but fishing line might work better.

11. Glue the end planking to the top of the underframe (fig 11). Using a razor blade, or an X-acto chisel blade, trim it to fit around the doors. Be careful to trim both ends about the same amount, so the body stays centered.

12. From the photo-etched fret, apply the windows, marker brackets & journal flaps.

13. Bend the end railings as shown in fig 12. You will have to cut the chain to allow the brake wheel to protrude correctly. Glue the brake wheel & housing, brake chain & end plates on. Paint & decal the end railings now. DO NOT glue them on until the last step.

14. When you're satisfied that the underframe fits the body, paint both assemblies & apply decals. If you want to add window glass, now is the time. I used .015" clear styrene, glued in place with Elmer's white glue (CA will fog it). When dry, tack the underframe to the body with thick CA in the corners.

15. Now glue the end railings on. For maximum strength, clean the bottom of the etching with a Q-tip dipped in lacquer thinner. Drill out the starter holes on the end planks, just enough to give the glue something to "bite". Apply a small drop of glue over each hole in the bottom of the etching.