• Kadee #1 scale couplers (820 or 920)
• Aristo Craft Roller bearing trucks (ART-29100)
• CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue. I prefer "medium" viscosity
• K&S .020" brass wire (for grab irons) or Creative Model Associates - Phosphor-Bronze Wire -- .020" Diameter
• K&S 1/16" copper tubing (for stirrup steps / trainline piping)
• #2 x ½ thread cutting screws (from microfasteners.com)
• # 6 flat washers
• Ozark Miniatures glad hand (from Air Brake Hose set w/brackets - OM-0041)
• Evergreen styrene .020" x .100" strip (for brake platform)
• Evergreen styrene .020" sheet
• Evergreen styrene 1/8" (.125") angle

000 – This photo shows all the resin parts for one kit.

To get the best bond when gluing castings, they should be cleaned prior to use. I don’t normally use a release agent when casting, but the molds can sometimes leave behind a trace amount of silicone oil. Also, the natural oil from your fingers can be picked up from normal handling.

I recommend a quick scrub (don’t soak) with 91% rubbing alcohol to remove any oils.

You can also soak them in soapy water for 24 hours. Add about a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent to the water, then add the parts. After 24 hours, rinse them off with fresh water. Never use hot water, as the parts may soften & deform.

Do not expose the parts to excessive heat (such as baking after painting).

I recommend completing all the underframe details before you begin work on the deck or the bulkheads.

001a, 001b – You may omit this step if you don’t care about the underframe details. I used 1/16" to model the trainline piping.

If you want to open up the stake pockets, drill them out with a 3/32" bit. Then square them up with a small square file. This is tricky at first, but after you’ve done 30 of them, you’ll have the hang of it.

001c – There are two football shaped holes in the side sill of the prototype. These are marked by three dimples on the casting. If you wish to drill them out, do it at this stage. If you aren’t comfortable with carving / machining resin, I would recommend you skip this step.

002 – Using a 1/16" bit, drill holes for the stirrup steps and the anglecock (the green plastic piece in the photo). Use CA to glue in the anglecock.

The stirrups steps are made from flattened 1/16" copper tubing. Crimp about a 1/8" segment of the ends to a square shape, and insert them into the hole. Secure them with a small drop of CA.

To install the coupler, first drill out a 1/16" hole in the coupler box’s cover. Next you will have to trim a little off the inside of the coupler box’s cover (on it’s right side in the photo) for it to fit correctly. Now put the cover on, and using the hole for a guide, drill out the mounting pin for the coupler (also with a 1/16" bit). Lastly, enlarge the hole in the cover with a 3/32" bit.

Install the coupler, put the cover over it, and secure it with a 2-56 thread cutting screw.

Using a #70 bit, drill out all the holes for the grab irons now. Bend them from .020" wire and install them (using a small dab of CA on their ends to secure them).

The cut bars are made from .020" brass wire. The eyelets are made from small fishhooks.

Drill out the mounting pin for the trucks with a 1/16" bit. You will use a 2-56 thread cutting screw and a #6 flat washer to attach the trucks.

003a, 003b – Assemble the bulkheads as shown in the photos.

First, from a sheet of .020" styrene, cut the backing. Note that this sheet needs to be as wide as the widest part of the body (measured from the outside of the stake pockets). Also note that you will need to account for the thickness of the decking when you cut this sheet to height.

Drill out all the holes (with a #70 bit) for the grab irons before you attach the ribs. Using the underframe as a guide, mark where the ribs should go. Attach them with CA.

Bend and install all grab irons now.

The small triangular ribs are cut from .020" x .125" strip stock. Use .020 x .100" strip styrene to mount the brake platform as shown.

* Note that I mistakenly reversed the number three rib on the B end.

004a, 004b – Install the bulkheads as shown. Glue 1/8" (.125") angle stock to the top and bottom as shown in the photos.

* Note that the car I modeled has one bulkhead cut off.

005 – Glue down the decking now with CA.

I recommend priming the entire body first with an enamel-based paint. Krylon and Testors Model Master rattle cans have always worked well for me.

Apply the decals using the included prototype photos as a guide.

These decals were printed with an ALPS "micro-dry" printer. ALPS ink is waxed based, thus having low abrasion resistance while still on the sheet. Avoid touching the printed area with hard or sharp objects (such as tweezers or the point of a hobby knife) as the ink can be scratched off.

I recommend leaving a small margin around the decals when trimming them from the sheet. This will give you enough room to pick them up with tweezers without touching the ink.

A glossy (or semi-gloss finish) is a must for proper application. A dead flat surface will result in a "silvery" sheen on the decal.

To apply the decals, soak them in water for 15-30 seconds and then slide them into the desired position. Distilled water is preferred. A wet, soft-bristled brush is an excellent tool to position them with.

The glue on the sheet is only to hold the decal on the carrier paper – it will not hold the decal in its final position. You will need a decal setting solution to bind the decal to the model. I recommend Champ’s Decal Set. Get the decal where you want it, blot out as much water as possible, apply the decal set and let it do it’s thing (don’t touch it again till its almost dry).

Once applied, let the decals dry for at least 24 hours before clear-coating. A clear overcoat (gloss or flat both work fine) will seal and protect the applied decal. If done correctly, the clear film will disappear.

I do not recommend you spray a Krylon clear coat directly over the decals, as they tend to wrinkle. I use Testors lacquer clear coat first, then Krylon.